Portrush and Portstewart: Seaside resorts on the Causeway Coast where ancient sand dunes meet Game of Thrones

2022-08-19 19:50:57 By : Mr. Ben Wang

Portrush and neighbouring Portstewart are the Causeway Coast’s leading resorts. Portrush occupies a peninsula flanked by sandy beaches and is the busier of the two towns. The amusement park – recently reopened as Curry’s Fun Park – has been drawing visitors since 1926.

Less than four miles west, Portstewart is more refined. Portstewart Strand is a highlight – the two miles of stunning National Trust beach are perfect for sunset strolls, or a brave dip in the sea.

This stretch of the Antrim coast is a haven for water sports enthusiasts, with surf schools and boat tours, as well as windsurfing and diving offered along the shoreline. The three Portstewart golf courses include one of Europe’s few 54-hole complexes. See ireland.com for more.

Trains run from Coleraine to Portrush, with connections to Derry/Londonderry and Belfast. Portrush station is central, next to West Strand beach and Curry’s Fun Park, with the compact town easy to navigate.

You can walk the Port Path between the two towns, which takes about three hours, or Ulsterbus 140b runs a Coleraine Triangle Service between them, with a journey time of around 15 minutes.

With the Open golf championship returning to the Royal Portrush in 2025 there are plans for a new luxury spa hotel, the Dunluce Lodge overlooking the fourth fairway next year.

Until then, the newest option is the Elephant Rock Hotel in Portrush, which directly overlooks the Atlantic. The eclectic design, and black and pink exterior, make it impossible to miss on the seafront. Rooms start at £100 with breakfast and there’s a wheelchair-accessible room.

In Portstewart, the four-star B&B Cul-Erg house and kitchen is a good option. It’s within walking distance of the shoreline, and there are sea-view rooms. Doubles start at £125.

Me and Mrs Jones is a more decadent option, well located between the town centre and the beach – there are summer DJ sets, magicians during some dinner services and afternoon tea is served with Prosecco. Doubles from £135 B&B.

Port 56 is a smart B&B nearby with family and accessible rooms. Doubles from £136.

Eight miles east of Portrush is the Giant’s Causeway. This geological wonder of around 40,000 basalt columns has been drawing visitors since Susanna Drury painted it in the 18th century and as myth has it, is the result of giant Finn McCool hurling rocks into the sea to create a path to Scottish rival Benandonner.

Bus 402 will take you there from Portrush in around 20 minutes. Entry is free but pre-booking essential for £13 guided tour. Getting there early should avoid the crowds.

For a more bespoke experience, the Giant’s Causeway cliff path tour is around four hours and aims to avoid the crowds. Booking ahead is essential, £39pp.

For those brave enough, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is only a 15-minute journey on from the Causeway. Built by salmon fisherman in 1755 to provide access to the Carrick-a-Rede outcrop, it is suspended 30m high over a 20m wide chasm. Book ahead, £13.

Portrush Surf School is led by Martin “TK” Kelly, who has represented Ireland on the international circuit; lessons include group surf sessions, bodyboarding and SUP, as well as girls’ only weekends, from £42.50pp.

Portstewart’s Promenade is lined with shops including A Broader Picture homeware boutique, while you’ll find shops clustered around Portrush’s Main Street, such as Kennedy Wolfenden antiques emporium.

At the Lost and Found Cafe in Portstewart, you can browse the hipster merchandise (flasks, beanie hats, T-shirts) while refueling on all-day brunch, Greek toasties or tacos.

Head to the Harbour Bar in Portrush. A Tardis of a building, the downstairs bar offers a traditional setting for a Guinness, but if it’s busy head upstairs to the Gin Bar which has more room to enjoy the live music.

Portrush’s multi-level Ramore restaurants serve cuisines to suit most tastes and budgets. Head to the top floor Basalt for tapas. On a good day you can eat on the terrace with panoramic views across the harbour. The Mermaid serves a fish-focused menu, while Neptune & Prawn is Asian-inspired and Coast specialises in pizza and pasta.

Head to Portstewart Strand. A dip in the Atlantic might not be for everyone, but a stroll along the sands of the National Trust beach will not disappoint. The grass-tufted sand dunes are 6,000 years old, and the golden sands were used as a location in Game of Thrones series five, where Jamie and Bronn land on the Dornish coastline to fetch Princess Myrcella. Walking west to the Benn estuary will reveal wildflowers, bees and butterflies.

East of Portrush, Whiterocks is a coastal park that stretches from Curran Strand to Dunluce Castle, backed by mighty cliffs and with breaks favoured by surfers and boarders.

Harry’s Shack is perfect for lunch after a morning on Portstewart Strand. Tuck into fresh seafood, and if you’re lucky with the weather there’s outdoor seating to maximise the views of the Atlantic.

West of Portstewart Strand is Benone beach, where – if you brave the sea – there’s an opportunity to warm up in a wood burning sauna in a trailer on the sand. Prices range from £12.50 to £50pp. You’ll never have a more peaceful beach experience.

There’s plenty more to see the along the Causeway coast. Highlights include the National Trust conservation village of Cushendun – designed by Clough Williams-Ellis in Cornish style – and the Gobbins Path, dubbed “the most dramatic coastal walk in Europe.” Bridges span dramatic inlets and elevated pathways hug sheer cliffs, with the tubular bridge and “Aquarium” with its mollusc encrusted rock pools, sponges and red seaweed two highlights.

Don’t leave without trying Maud’s Pooh Bear (honeycomb) ice cream in Portstewart – the founders proudly claim to have been “scoopin’” since 1982. Once tasted, you’ll already be planning your return.

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